surfing

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Storm chase mission 3

My throat was tight. My breath shallow. My eyes stung from staring hard at the horizon. We were told to look for shadows in the water or for a fin,

400 400 FLANEUR ARCHITECTS

365

There are four major types of waves. Rolling waves are the most familiar waves, and the type most surfers prefer because they break in a stable pattern. Dumping waves are more unpredictable

400 400 FLANEUR ARCHITECTS

Mavericks

When I go to describe something as remarkable as what I saw that day, I could only say it was a place of dreams. The water is crystalline clear, a mixture of opalescent colors and frosted with white tips.

400 400 FLANEUR ARCHITECTS

Chasing Waves

You are going to fall in the water. Your head will go under. Depending on how big a wave you fall on, it’ll be like falling into a cross between a cement mixer and a fast flowing river.